Vogue.co.uk are looking toward next season's mood and asked our buyer Ruth Runberg who most caught her eye at the shows, and who we've invested in.
ALTUZARRA - "I am torn between choosing this look and one of the finale dresses - after all, this was my favourite show of NY. In the end, I chose this dress because the shape and material echo Joseph’s very first collections but incorporate this season’s gorgeous rug print and gypsy coin sash. Joseph’s talent lies in the ability to move forward season after season with very different collections, yet always with a consistent handwriting connecting each show."
ASHISH - "The feel-good colours, yogic spirit and peace and love messages of this collection left everyone smiling and ready for festival season. This sequin tie-dye shift dress, grunge boots and Hare Krishna shawl are a dream come true for the 15-year-old inside me who couldn't ever quite choose between Jerry Garcia and Kurt Cobain. Ashish, we love you, man."
BOUCHRA JARRAR - "This decade-long alumna of Balenciaga remains (for the time-being) under the radar, showing her unimaginably chic prêt-a-porter collections during the Paris Couture shows. This is her first use of print and the delicate-but-not-at-all-fussy floral in pale peach and grey-blue couldn’t be made up into a look any more elegantly feminine than this gown."
DOLCE & GABBANA - "My favourite collection from Milan! With fresh cut roses dripping from a dozen chandeliers, lace veils, bejewelled flower tiaras and The Three Tenors’ melodramatic rendition of “O Sole Mio”, I was ready to don this gorgeous lace confection, meet my husband in Sicily and get married all over again. Mama mia!"
BALMAIN - "I have loved seeing the fresh direction Olivier Rousteing has taken Balmain in his first two seasons. This collection was characteristically Balmain baroque (it was inspired by Elizabeth Taylor’s bejewelled Fabergé egg!), covered in a beautiful and opulent embellishment of crystals, pearls and needlepoint flowers. But there was a cool easiness in the collection too - as in the final exit, a gorgeous bottle green flocked velvet blouse and fluid trouser."
DRIES VAN NOTEN - "As I am a total wanderlust romantic at heart, Dries’ thoughtful, contemplative alchemy of sensible tailoring and exotic elements from far-away lands never fails to leave me marvelling. And this season was as dreamy as ever. I love the high neck, saffron colours and kimono print of this silk blouse and skirt."
VALENTINO - "I loved that this collection was a very sophisticated celebration of local, traditional, artisanal craftsmanship. Russian folk embroideries became something altogether magical when reproduced in tiny sequins on this glittering gown. And what’s more chic than a long-sleeved gown worn with flats for evening?"
LANVIN - "Alber tenderly serenading us all with 'Que Sera, Sera', Doris Day’s song from one of my favourite Hitchcock films, The Man Who Knew Too Much, was a fitting ending to another beautifully emotive Lanvin show. This shocking pink lace top and skirt was my favourite look, styled with gorgeous oversized jewels and a buckle velvet belt. Alber certainly knows just enough about how to delight his legions of fans!"
SIMONE ROCHA - "This acidy golden top and skirt were such a pop of colour to a cool girl’s dream collection of black and white lace and texture. And Rocha's silver brogues with neon-colored Perspex running through the soles are a must-have for autumn/winter — we will have a waiting list for sure."